Frequently Asked Questions

100 real questions from Florida and Georgia log home owners, answered from 42 years of hands-on experience — covering maintenance, staining, media blasting, log rot repair, insects, chinking and caulking, mold and mildew, Florida's climate, hiring a contractor, and what a full restoration costs.

Log Home Maintenance

How often should my log home be stained?

Most log homes need a fresh maintenance coat every 3 to 7 years, but Florida's sun and humidity often push that closer to every 3 to 5 years on exposed walls. We look at the actual condition of your finish during an inspection rather than going strictly by the calendar.

What are the warning signs my log home needs attention?

Fading or dull sheen, wood that feels dry or rough, water that soaks in instead of beading up, cracked caulk or chinking, dark staining, and mildew are all signs it's time for a look. Soft spots or spongy wood usually mean moisture has gotten in and deserves a closer inspection.

How often should I have my log home inspected?

We recommend a full exterior inspection at least once a year, plus a walk-around after any major storm. We pay close attention to the lower log courses, log ends, corners, window and door openings, and any area that gets heavy roof runoff or sun exposure.

What maintenance should I be doing between inspections?

Keep the exterior free of dirt, pollen, and debris; check that caulk and chinking are still sealed; keep gutters and downspouts clear; trim vegetation back from the walls; and watch for insect activity. Small fixes caught early are almost always cheaper than waiting.

Can staying on top of maintenance really save me money?

Yes — it's the single biggest factor. Catching a failed seal or the start of water intrusion during a routine inspection means a small repair instead of the log rot and structural work that shows up after years of neglect.

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How long does log home stain actually last in Florida?

A quality log-home finish can protect for several years, but Florida's sun, heat, humidity, and frequent rain shorten that window compared to drier climates. South- and west-facing walls almost always weather faster than porch-protected walls, which is why we check condition wall-by-wall during an inspection instead of assuming the whole house ages at the same rate.

What can I do to make my stain last longer?

Keep the logs clean, keep gutters and downspouts clear so runoff isn't hitting the walls, make sure sprinklers aren't spraying the house, and give the logs breathing room from nearby landscaping. Repairing failed caulk or chinking promptly and recoating before the finish reaches bare wood both go a long way toward stretching the life of a stain job.

How exactly does Florida's weather work against log homes?

Strong UV radiation breaks down pigment and finish components, high humidity keeps wood moisture elevated for much of the year, and heavy, wind-driven rain finds its way into any gap in the finish or joints. Good drainage, a breathable protective coating, and regular inspection matter more here than almost anywhere else in the country.

Do my logs need to be cleaned before they're stained?

Yes. Dirt, pollen, mildew, chalking finish, and other surface contaminants can interfere with how well a new coat adheres and how it looks once it's on. We match the cleaning method to your home's existing finish and wood condition, and make sure the logs are fully dry before any stain goes on.

How often should I check my gutters and downspouts?

We recommend checking them several times a year and again after any major storm, especially if you have trees nearby that drop debris. Overflowing gutters and downspouts that dump water against the house are one of the most common causes of repeat log rot we see.

Log Home Staining

What stain do you use on Florida log homes?

We use professional-grade, log-home-specific coating systems — including Sashco and Perma-Chink — chosen because they hold up to Florida's UV exposure, heat, and humidity better than big-box store products. The right product depends on your wood, existing finish, and how exposed your walls are.

Is oil-based or water-based stain better for my home?

Both can perform well when applied correctly and matched to your existing system. Water-based log-home coatings generally offer strong UV protection and easier maintenance, while oil-based products can penetrate deeply for a more traditional look. We'll recommend the system that's compatible with what's already on your logs.

Can you stain over my existing finish, or does it need to be stripped first?

If your current finish is sound, clean, and compatible with the new coating, we can often apply a maintenance coat after proper cleaning and prep. If it's peeling, heavily weathered, or an incompatible product, we'll need to remove it first — usually with media blasting — before restaining.

Why is my stain peeling or failing early?

Peeling is almost always caused by trapped moisture, incompatible product layers, or a coat applied over wood that wasn't properly cleaned and dried. We diagnose the cause before recoating — simply painting over a failing finish just hides the problem temporarily.

How much does professional staining cost?

It depends on your home's square footage, height, accessibility, the condition of the existing finish, and how many coats are needed. We provide a firm estimate after an on-site inspection — call (386) 688-4996 to schedule one.

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How long does a staining project actually take?

The staining itself might take a few days, but a full project usually takes longer once you factor in cleaning, drying time, any repairs, masking, multiple coats, and weather delays. Larger restoration projects that include stripping, chinking, or caulking can stretch to a few weeks — we'll walk you through a realistic timeline before we start.

Does the weather need to be a certain temperature to stain?

Yes — we follow the manufacturer's application range for whichever product we're using, since that varies by system. In general we look for moderate temperatures, dry logs, and stable weather, and we avoid staining logs that are too hot, wet, or facing rain before the coat can cure.

Can you stain in Florida's humidity?

We can, but high humidity can slow drying and curing time. We factor in surface temperature, actual wood moisture, shade, dew, and the forecast — not just the humidity reading — before deciding a wall is ready to coat.

How long does the stain need to dry before it rains?

Dry time depends on the specific product, temperature, and humidity, so we follow the manufacturer's guidance closely and build in extra buffer when conditions are cool or humid. Applying stain right before rain can cause spotting, wash-off, or a coat that never cures properly, so we always work around the forecast.

Why does stain fade faster on some walls than others?

UV exposure is the main driver — sun-facing walls fade first because ultraviolet light gradually breaks down the pigments and finish components. Fading can also show up sooner than expected if too little product was applied originally or the coating is simply reaching the end of its service life.

Media Blasting

What is media blasting, and why would my home need it?

Media blasting uses controlled abrasive media and air pressure to remove old, failed coatings down to clean wood. We use it during restoration projects when the existing finish has failed and needs to come off before a new coating system can be applied properly.

Will media blasting damage my logs?

Not when it's done by an experienced crew. We control the media type, pressure, and distance to remove the old coating without stripping away sound wood. On unusual finishes or older homes, we'll often test a small area first.

Is media blasting always necessary before restaining?

No. If your existing finish is sound and compatible with the new coat, a thorough cleaning and maintenance coat is often all that's needed. We only recommend blasting when the current coating has failed or needs to come off for the restoration to hold up.

Is media blasting messy?

Yes, dry blasting creates dust and spent media, so we mask and protect windows, landscaping, and fixtures before we start and clean up thoroughly when the job's done.

Can media blasting remove dark water stains or old mildew discoloration?

It can lighten or remove a lot of surface staining, but deep discoloration that's soaked into the wood grain may remain. We'll check any dark areas for underlying moisture damage rather than just blasting and moving on.

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Why do you use media blasting instead of just pressure washing?

Media blasting removes stubborn, failed coatings without saturating the wood with water the way pressure washing can. Excessive pressure-washer force can damage wood fibers, drive water into joints and checks, and add drying time to the project — media blasting gives us more control when a finish genuinely needs to come off.

What kind of media do you use on log homes?

We select media based on the coating type and the condition of the wood underneath, generally favoring gentler media that removes the old finish while preserving the log's natural profile. Depending on the surface, we may follow up with light sanding or additional cleaning to finish the prep work.

Will blasting get every bit of the old stain off?

It removes most or all of many failed coatings, but results depend on the type of finish, how many layers have built up, and how deep the old pigment has penetrated. We sometimes need detail sanding or spot treatment around corners, checks, and architectural features to finish the job.

How long does a media blasting job usually take?

It depends on the size of the home, how many coating layers are on it, accessibility, and how much detail work is needed. A smaller, straightforward home might only take a day or two, while a large or heavily coated structure can take considerably longer.

Can media blasting get rid of dark water stains?

It can lighten or remove a lot of surface staining, but discoloration that has soaked deep into the wood grain may not fully disappear. When we see stubborn dark staining, we check the area for underlying moisture damage rather than just blasting and moving on.

Log Rot & Structural Repairs

What causes log rot in the first place?

Rot develops when logs stay wet long enough for decay fungi to take hold — usually from a roof or gutter leak, failed caulk or chinking, splashback, poor flashing, or vegetation holding moisture against the wall.

How do I know if my logs are actually rotten, or just weathered?

Look for wood that feels soft or spongy, crumbles under light pressure, has hollow-sounding spots, or stays damp longer than the surrounding area. If you're not sure, we'll probe the suspect area during an inspection to see how far the damage extends.

Can rotten logs be repaired, or do they have to be replaced?

Often they can be repaired. Localized decay can usually be cut out and replaced with a properly fitted patch, while more extensive damage may call for a full log section replacement. Either way, we fix the moisture source causing the rot, not just the wood.

Where does rot usually show up first on a log home?

The lower log courses, exposed log ends, corners, areas under windows and doors, deck connections, and anywhere roof or sprinkler water repeatedly hits the wall.

What happens if I put off a rot repair?

It spreads. A small, inexpensive repair today can turn into extensive structural work in a few years if the moisture source isn't addressed. We always recommend fixing it while it's still a localized repair.

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Does a rotten log always have to be fully replaced?

No. The right repair depends on how deep, how long, and how structurally important the damaged section is. Surface-level decay is often repairable, while more severe structural loss usually calls for a more substantial replacement — we'll tell you honestly which category your home falls into.

Can log rot spread to healthy wood nearby?

Yes, as long as the conditions that caused it are still present. Decay can continue into adjacent wood if the source of moisture isn't fixed, which is why we always address the cause — not just patch the damaged spot — when we make a repair.

What's the best way to prevent rot from coming back?

Keep water moving away from the logs, stay current on your stain and caulk/chinking, fix flashing and gutter problems promptly, and keep vegetation and soil away from the walls. Catching upward-facing checks that collect water is also part of it — regular inspection is really the best early-warning system.

Can soft or spongy logs be saved?

Sometimes. If the softness is limited to the surface, we can often repair it without removing the log. Deeper or more structurally weakened wood usually needs to come out and be replaced — the amount of sound wood remaining determines which approach makes sense.

Roughly what does it cost to replace a damaged log?

There's no single number we can give without seeing the home — it depends on the log's profile, length, location on the structure, how much load it's carrying, how accessible it is, and what interior finishes might be affected. We give an accurate number after an on-site inspection.

Insects & Pest Damage

What insects cause the most damage to log homes in Florida?

Termites, carpenter bees, carpenter ants, and wood-boring beetles are the most common culprits we see. Each one damages wood differently, so correct identification matters for choosing the right repair.

How do I know if I have termite damage?

Termite damage often isn't visible on the surface until it's advanced — we look for hollow-sounding wood, mud tubes, and soft or crumbling areas during inspections. If you suspect active termites, that treatment needs to come from a licensed pest control company; we handle the structural and cosmetic repair afterward.

Are carpenter bees or carpenter ants a serious threat?

Carpenter bees drill round entry holes that can lead to repeated damage over the years, and carpenter ants nest in wood that's already softened by moisture. Neither eats wood like termites do, but both are worth addressing before the damage spreads.

Does stain protect my logs from insects?

Stain mainly protects against weather and UV exposure, not insects. It shouldn't be treated as pest prevention — regular inspection and, where needed, a licensed pest control treatment are what actually protect against infestation.

Can insect damage be repaired along with a restoration?

Yes. Once any active infestation has been treated, we repair the damaged wood — patching, facing, or replacing sections as needed — and can apply a borate treatment to help protect against future damage.

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What can I do to help prevent termites?

Keep soil and mulch away from wood surfaces, correct any moisture problems around the foundation and logs, don't store firewood against the house, and stay current on professional termite inspections and treatment where appropriate. Termite protection is separate from staining — a good finish doesn't substitute for pest control.

Can powderpost beetle damage be treated?

Yes, but the right approach depends on the specific beetle species, whether the infestation is still active, and how accessible the affected wood is. We recommend having a qualified pest control professional confirm activity before any treatment decision is made.

Should my logs be treated for insects after a restoration?

Many of our restoration systems include a wood preservative or borate treatment where it's appropriate and compatible with the finish being applied. We select and apply it according to the manufacturer's directions and whatever's called for by your specific home.

Can insects get in through the natural cracks in my logs?

Yes — checks, gaps, and failed joints can give insects shelter or access, even though checks themselves are a completely normal part of how logs dry and age. We only recommend sealing the checks and joints that genuinely need it, using methods appropriate for log construction.

How often should my log home be checked for insect activity?

We recommend homeowners keep an eye out during their regular annual walk-around, while professional pest inspections should follow whatever frequency your local risk level and pest control provider recommend. Florida's warm climate keeps pests active nearly year-round, so ongoing vigilance matters more here than in cooler states.

Chinking, Caulking & Checks

What's the difference between chinking and caulking?

Chinking is the flexible material that seals the wider horizontal joints between log courses, while caulk is used in narrower joints, around windows and doors, and at corners. Both are designed to move with the logs and keep water and air out.

How do I know when my chinking needs to be replaced?

Watch for chinking that's lost adhesion, cracked, or opened up enough to let air or water through. Small isolated failures can often be repaired without redoing an entire wall.

Why does my chinking keep cracking?

Usually it's log movement, insufficient backing, poor original adhesion, or an incompatible product. We diagnose the cause before repairing — otherwise the same crack tends to come back.

Does every log home need chinking?

No — it depends on the construction. Some milled-log systems use tight-fitting profiles or caulk instead of traditional wide chinking. We'll tell you what your home actually needs rather than a one-size-fits-all answer.

Should every crack or check in my logs be sealed?

Not necessarily. Small drying checks are a normal part of log construction. We only recommend sealing checks that face upward and collect water — sealing every crack can actually trap moisture instead of keeping it out.

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Can old, failing caulking be repaired instead of replaced?

Often, yes. We remove whatever's loose, brittle, or no longer adhered, clean the joint thoroughly, and install a compatible sealant sized correctly for the gap. It doesn't always mean redoing the whole wall.

Is chinking actually waterproof?

Properly installed chinking is designed to resist weather and help keep water out of the joints between your logs, but it's only one part of the system — flashing, roof overhangs, stain, and other sealants all have to work together for the wall to stay protected.

How long does modern chinking typically last?

Quality chinking can last many years when it's installed correctly and the wall is otherwise well protected, but exposure, log movement, and installation quality all affect how long it holds up. Annual inspection lets us catch small adhesion failures while they're still an easy repair.

Can failed caulking actually cause log rot?

Yes. A failed seal allows repeated water entry into the joint and the wood around it, and if that wood stays wet, decay can start. That's why we treat a cracked or separated joint as something to fix promptly, not cosmetic.

Can chinking or caulking be color-matched to my logs?

In most cases, yes — chinking and caulking are available in a range of colors and we'll match it as closely as possible to your home's existing look. We can show you samples against your actual logs before we commit to a color.

Mold, Mildew & Cleaning

Why are parts of my log home turning black?

Dark discoloration can come from mildew, water staining, dirt, UV weathering, or decay — each needs a different fix. We identify the cause before deciding whether it's a cleaning job or a sign of a moisture problem underneath.

Is mildew actually damaging my logs?

Surface mildew is often mostly cosmetic, but it usually points to persistent moisture, which is the real concern — that same moisture can contribute to coating failure and eventually wood decay if it's not addressed.

Is it safe to use bleach to clean my logs?

We don't recommend household bleach as a default cleaner — it isn't matched to every log finish and can affect the wood and surrounding landscaping. We use cleaning products and dilution rates matched to your specific coating system.

How can I prevent mold and mildew from coming back?

Keep the walls able to dry out, trim back dense vegetation, direct roof and ground water away from the house, and keep your finish maintained. Shaded, damp areas need the most attention.

Will a fresh coat of stain stop mold from coming back?

A well-maintained finish helps by reducing how much moisture the wood absorbs, but no stain can fully compensate for constant wetting or poor drainage. Fixing the moisture source is what actually solves the problem long-term.

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Can mildew actually be removed, or does it just come back?

Usually it can be removed with cleaners and washing methods matched to your specific finish. That said, if the underlying moisture, shade, or drainage condition isn't also corrected, it tends to come back — so we address both the surface growth and the cause.

Can pressure washing get rid of mold on my log home?

It can remove surface material, but excessive pressure can erode softened wood, damage the coating, and force water into joints — which can cause more problems than it solves. Lower-pressure cleaning with the right products is usually the safer approach on a maintained log finish.

Does poor drainage really cause mold on log homes?

Yes — poor drainage keeps the lower logs and surrounding areas damp longer than they should be, which encourages mildew growth and eventually contributes to decay. Making sure gutters, grading, and landscaping all move water away from the wall is one of the simplest ways to prevent it.

Should mold be cleaned off before we restain the house?

Yes. Staining over contamination reduces how well the new coat adheres and traps an unattractive surface underneath the fresh finish. We clean and prep the wood according to the coating manufacturer's requirements before any stain goes on.

What's the difference between mold, mildew, and algae on a log home?

They can look similar but behave differently — mildew is usually a surface fungus tied to moisture and shade, algae tends to show up as a greenish film in damp areas, and mold growth can be a sign moisture has actually gotten into the wood rather than just sitting on top of it. We look closely before deciding whether it's a cleaning job or something that needs a deeper inspection.

Florida-Specific Questions

How does Florida's climate affect log homes differently than other states?

Florida logs deal with intense UV, high humidity, heavy rain, wind-driven moisture, and a long warm season that favors mildew growth — all of which shorten the life of a finish compared to drier climates. Good drainage, a breathable protective coating, and regular inspection matter more here than almost anywhere else.

Does salt air affect log homes near the coast?

Yes — salt can build up on surfaces and hardware, and wind-driven moisture increases weathering. Homes closer to the coast typically need more frequent gentle cleaning and closer attention to hardware and finish condition.

Can hurricanes or tropical storms damage my log home's finish?

Wind-driven rain, flying debris, and prolonged wetting during a storm can all damage coatings, sealants, and exposed wood. After any major storm, we recommend inspecting your walls, roof drainage, windows, doors, and log joints for new damage.

Why do the south- and west-facing walls of my home fade faster?

Those walls get the longest, most direct sun exposure, which breaks down pigment and finish components faster. They usually need maintenance coats sooner than shaded or porch-protected walls.

What maintenance schedule actually works for a Florida log home?

We recommend a yearly inspection, cleaning as needed, keeping gutters and drainage functioning, promptly repairing any failed caulk or chinking, and recoating exposed walls before they reach bare wood — a wall-by-wall approach rather than waiting for the whole house to fail at once.

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What kind of stain actually holds up best in Florida?

We look for a high-quality log-home coating system with strong UV and moisture resistance, matched to your home's existing finish and a maintenance plan that fits Florida's demands. The right product depends on your wood and current coating just as much as the climate — there's no universal answer.

Is it a problem if trees or bushes are touching my log home?

Yes — branches and dense vegetation can trap moisture against the walls, scrape at the coating, and create an easy path for insects to reach the wood. We recommend keeping enough clearance for sunlight, airflow, and easy access for inspection and maintenance.

Does Florida's humidity really shorten how long a stain lasts?

It contributes, yes. Humidity slows drying and keeps walls damp longer, especially on shaded elevations, and combined with our heat, rain, and UV exposure it adds up to a shorter maintenance cycle than you'd see in a drier climate.

Can lawn sprinklers actually damage my log home?

Yes — if a sprinkler head repeatedly hits the same section of wall, that area stays wet far more than it should, which leads to water staining, faster coating wear, and eventually decay. Adjusting irrigation so it doesn't strike the house is a simple, often-overlooked fix.

Does it matter whether my log home is inland or right on the coast?

It does. Coastal homes deal with salt buildup and more wind-driven moisture on top of everything inland homes face, which usually means more frequent gentle cleaning and closer attention to hardware and finish condition. Inland homes still deal with heat, humidity, and heavy rain, just without the added salt exposure.

Hiring a Log Home Contractor

What should I look for when choosing a log home restoration company?

Look for a contractor with real log-home-specific experience, documented past projects, proper insurance, and a clear process for diagnosing moisture problems — not just making the home look new. We've been doing exactly this for 42 years.

Why does log-home-specific experience matter so much?

Log walls move, check, and absorb and release moisture very differently from conventional siding. A contractor without log-specific experience can easily make expensive mistakes — using the wrong products or missing a moisture problem that leads to rot down the road.

Will you give me a written estimate?

Yes. Our estimates describe the areas we're working on, the prep method, any repairs needed, the coating system we'll use, and how we'll handle any rot or structural surprises we find once we get into the work.

Do you subcontract the work out?

No. The same core crew handles every job we take on, from a small chinking touch-up to a full restoration, so you get consistent quality and someone who knows your home from the first visit through completion.

Can I see examples of your past work or talk to past customers?

Absolutely — before-and-after photos and references from past projects are some of the best ways to see the quality of our work and how we communicate with homeowners throughout a job.

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Will you travel to a home that's outside your regular service area?

We travel to log homes across Florida and South Georgia, including more remote properties outside our core service area. Depending on distance, we may need to factor travel time into scheduling — we're happy to discuss that upfront when you call.

Do you guarantee your work?

We stand behind our workmanship, but any honest contractor will tell you no one can guarantee a coating will last a fixed number of years regardless of sun, moisture, building design, and how well it's maintained afterward. We'll be upfront about what our workmanship covers when we give you an estimate.

Can you match my log home's existing stain color?

Often we can get very close. Weathering and wood age can make an exact match tricky, so we test samples directly on your home before committing to a color, rather than just matching from a chip.

Do repairs happen before or after staining?

Generally, structural repairs, rot correction, and most surface preparation are completed first, with the final coating system applied afterward. The exact order of caulking, chinking, and staining can shift slightly depending on the specific products being used.

Are ongoing maintenance programs actually worth it?

They can be, when they're built around your home's real condition. A good maintenance program focuses on scheduled inspection and cleaning to catch small failures early — not on selling you work your home doesn't need yet.

Cost, Planning & Complete Restoration

How much does a full log home restoration cost?

There's no flat number we can quote without seeing the home — cost depends on square footage, height, access, how much repair and prep work is needed, and the coating system you choose. We'll give you a firm number after an on-site inspection.

How long does a complete restoration typically take?

Most full restorations take several weeks, depending on drying time, prep, repairs, the number of coats, and weather. Larger projects with significant rot repair or extensive chinking work can take longer — we'll walk you through a realistic timeline before we start.

Will a restoration actually increase my home's value?

A well-maintained log exterior improves curb appeal and protects the structure from the kind of deferred-maintenance damage that scares off buyers. We view it primarily as protecting the asset you already have rather than a guaranteed dollar-for-dollar return.

Do I need to move out of my home during restoration work?

Usually not — exterior restoration doesn't require you to leave. There will be noise, equipment, and some temporary access restrictions, and media blasting or major structural repair may call for extra precautions, but most homeowners stay put throughout the project.

Why do homeowners across Florida and South Georgia choose Florida Log Home Specialists?

We're a family-operated crew with 42 years of hands-on log home experience — chinking, caulking, staining, log rot repair, termite damage repair, media blasting, inspections, and maintenance plans, all handled by the same crew from start to finish, with no subcontractors. Call (386) 688-4996 for a free estimate.

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Is it better to restore a log home or replace it?

In most cases, restoration is the better move — sound portions of a log structure can usually be preserved while only the damaged areas are repaired or replaced. The right call depends on how extensive the structural deterioration is and the economics of your specific project, which we'll walk you through honestly.

Can weather push back my restoration timeline?

Absolutely. Rain, high humidity, excessive heat, and wet wood can all delay cleaning, repairs, staining, and curing. We build flexibility into the schedule rather than forcing a coating onto a surface that isn't ready for it.

How far ahead should I book a restoration project?

The sooner the better, especially for larger projects — we can book out during favorable weather seasons. Reaching out as soon as you notice a need gives us time for a proper inspection, product selection, and scheduling.

What should I do to prepare before the crew arrives?

We'll talk through access, vehicles, outdoor furniture, pets, landscaping, and any water or electrical needs ahead of time, and let you know exactly what you should move versus what we'll mask or protect ourselves.

Will my landscaping be protected during the project?

Yes — protecting plants, decks, windows, roofing, and other nearby surfaces is part of a professional restoration plan. The exact containment and cleanup approach depends on the cleaning, blasting, and coating products involved, and we'll walk you through it before we start.

Still Have Questions?

Call (386) 688-4996 — we're happy to talk through your log home's specific needs.